Qipao (Cheongsam): The Story of China's Iconic Dress

The qipao (旗袍) — also known by its Cantonese name cheongsam — is one of the most recognisable Chinese garments in the world: a figure-skimming dress with a mandarin collar, side slits, and delicate frog-button fastenings. It is worth knowing up front that the qipao is not Hanfu; it belongs to a later, separate tradition. Here's its story and how to wear it. For traditional Han Chinese dress, see our Ultimate Guide to Hanfu.

Qipao vs. Hanfu: An Important Distinction

Hanfu refers to the historical clothing of the Han Chinese, with cross-collars and flowing, layered silhouettes. The qipao developed much later and looks quite different — fitted, with a stand collar and side slits. They are two distinct traditions, and it's worth not conflating them.

From Manchu Robe to Shanghai Icon

The qipao's roots lie in the loose changpao robes of the Manchu during the Qing dynasty. Its famous modern form, however, took shape in 1920s–1930s Shanghai, when the robe was reimagined as a slim, tailored dress that blended Chinese elements with Western cutting. That Art-Deco-era qipao — elegant, modern, worn by film stars and socialites — is the silhouette most people picture today.

Signature Features

• Mandarin (stand-up) collar framing the neck.
• Pankou: hand-knotted frog-button closures, often shaped like flowers.
• Side slits for movement and elegance.
• A fitted, figure-following cut, traditionally in silk or brocade.

Occasions and Modern Wear

Today the qipao is worn at weddings, New Year celebrations, tea ceremonies, and formal events — and increasingly as fashion-forward everyday wear in shorter, relaxed cuts. A crimson qipao is an especially popular bridal choice.

How to Choose a Qipao

Fit is everything: the qipao should skim rather than squeeze, so measure carefully and prioritise the shoulder and bust fit. Choose the slit height for your comfort and occasion, and pick fabric to match — structured brocade for formal events, softer blends for daily wear.

Explore our Qipao collection for everyday and occasion styles, or our Bridal Qipao for wedding looks.

Timeless tradition. Modern expression. Shop the Qipao collection →